Walking among the clouds...

(Click on the pictures if you want a full size view)
Everything you've ever wanted, is one step outside your comfort zone. Believe it, it is true.

Age is no barrier when it comes to travel & adventure. The moment is now or never. I've been inspired by travelers who has explored the mountains, their ordeals, their thrills and ultimately their triumph through text and images. I wanted to experience it and the day came in Oct 2018. I had planned it 6 months in advance to avoid last minute rush and also high travel costs. 

How to reach Uttarakhand? 

I am from Bangalore and there are various ways to reach Uttarakhand. You may choose the longer route by train or the much quicker one by flight. I took the latter. The best way is to fly to Dehradun and from there make your journey to the mountains. There is only 1 non-stop flight from Bangalore to Dehradun that departs at 12:45 pm. The flight time is about 3 hours. There are others that breaks the journey in Delhi which takes nearly 5 to 6 hours.

Where to stay? 

My plan was to spend a week at Sari Village (base camp) and trek to Deoria Tal, Chopta, Tungnath and Chandrashilla Peak. It was a perfect decision. I stayed at Café Buransh in Sari, a cozy homestay kind of a setup. The facility is located up the mountain, 10 mins walk from the main road, on the way to Deoria Tal Lake (1.4km). The cafe is perfectly positioned in the middle of the mountains all around, rendering a picturesque views from the rooms.

 

I was here for 5 days (Oct 11 to 16, 2018) and my stay was exceptionally satisfying. I couldn't have asked for more. Personally, the most important aspect for me as a traveler, is a clean and tidy room to stay. Cafe Buransh offers a cozy and beautifully arranged room with high standards. You will not find any facility around Sari, similar to this. The dining and recreational area is worth the mention. It is very well designed to give the pleasures of dining and having fun in close quarters with nature. 

A magnificent view awaits you. A warm and welcoming host makes a world of difference. You immediately feel at home. I made this place my base camp from where I was able to trek to Deoria Tal (2500m), Tungnath (3680m), Chandrashila (4130m) & Jhindi Dhar (Khiri top) (2600m). If you are planning to do these treks and expect to have a wonderful stay, Cafe Buransh is the place to be.

This is definitely a place with modern amenities that you will NOT find anywhere else in Sari. I would highly recommend this place for individuals and family. A home that will linger in your memory even after you leave. A truly heavenly experience (stay & trek). Highly recommended!

Rishikesh

I arrived at Dehradun at 4 pm and headed to Rishikesh by 4:30. It is a 20 km drive by car. Rishikesh is located in the foothills of the Himalayas and also known as Gateway to the Garhwal Himalayas and the Yoga capital of the world. This pilgrimage town is regarded as one of the holiest places for Hindus. I had booked a room close to a very nice food joint called Bistro Nirvana. I had a 1-night stay before I started to Sari the following morning. The rooms are not that great, but if you are looking for a place with basic facilities, you wouldn't be disappointed. I dumped my bag and had about 2 hours to visit Lakshman Jhula before sun set. It wasn't too far away from the room and took me about 15 mins to reach.
I got my very first view of the holy river Ganga standing on Lakshman Jhula. A great site indeed. Lakshman Jhula is a suspension bridge connecting two villages, Tapovan in the west to Jonk in the east. Lakshman Jhula is a pedestrian bridge that is also used by motorbikes. This is one of the iconic landmarks of Rishikesh. According to Hindu mythology, it is believed that Lord Lakshman (Lord Rama's brother), crossed the river Ganga at the same spot where the present bridge is now constructed, using just two ropes. In honour of this brave act the hanging bridge was built and came to be known as the 'Lakshman Jhula'. Tera Manzil temple or Trayambakeshwar or Trimbakeshwar temple is a 13 storey building complex located on the east side of the Ganga that is visible very clearly from Lakshman Jhula. Unlike other temples that is dedicated to 1 deity, this temple offers multiple deities, that one can worship at a single place.

I spent time walking around the area. Lots of street vendors and shops around. If you are keen on purchasing souvenirs there's a lot to choose from. It was pretty hot and I've been told its normal at this time of the year. By the time I was back in the hotel room was quite tired and very hungry.

Bistro Nirvana….calling…. 

Was just a matter of walking down the stairs to this magnificent café-cum-restaurant. An unsophisticated ambience with bamboo furniture's to sit on. If you prefer to be closer to nature and feel the gentle breeze, there are seating under the trees. The restaurant caters to world cuisine, ranging from Indian, Mediterranean, Italian, American and others. I ordered chicken tikka for starters and a chicken sizzler as the main course. The waiter did warn me of the large quantity up front, but little did he know about my capacity 😊 . I told him 'Dikhne main to patla hoon, magar khata to bahut hoon' (I may look lean, but I eat a lot). It was delicious and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

I would recommend this place, especially if you are looking for non-vegetarian dishes. You won't be blown away but will definitely be happy you had a decent experience. A nice place to be.

The journey to Sari Village 

Sari is located about 190 km from Rishikesh and there are 2 ways to get there, a taxi (more convenient) or the bus (longer). I booked a cab. Just down the path from the Bistro there are travel offices that can help you with the transport arrangements. The best time to start would be early in the morning to avoid peak hour traffic jams.The roads from Rishikesh leading to the Chota Char Dhams, (Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath, and Badrinath) are being widened and most of the journey is through detours and slow-moving traffic. It took me about 7 hours to reach Sari, which would've taken longer, had I started later than 6 am, when the traffic would be much more. The road follows the path of the Ganga all the way till Devaprayag where officially the River Ganga is formed by the merging two rivers, Alakananda and Bhagirathi. We dropped at a local restaurant for breakfast at Srinagar (not to be confused with Jammu). Hot and fresh Aloo paratha with some curd. It was delicious. From then on, the road follows the path of Alakananda river up until Rudraprayag (confluence of rivers Alaknanda and Mandakini). It took me about 2 and a half hours to reach Sari village. The taxi ride cost me Rs 4000.

 
Café Buransh is up the mountain and takes a bit of a strenuous walk to get there. Steep rock paths lead you to the café. I took about 10 mins but would vary based on how quickly or slowly one can walk. A beautiful place and I was impressed immediately. The weather was perfect. I was very hungry after the long drive. I quickly changed and then came to the dining area where a sumptuous lunch awaited me. The credit goes to the chef, Rakesh. A smiling and energetic young man who would go the extra mile to make the customers happy. After my meal, relaxed at the recreational area watching the mountains & valleys around me. My mind felt so calm, time slows down and I experienced absolute silence & stillness of nature. The work stress, project deadlines, unending conference calls all a distant away, I suddenly realize that mother earth is all that we have in common. Absolute Bliss…

My friend (co-owner of Café Buransh) and I spent the evening reminiscing over a drink and it was followed by a wonderful dinner. We decided to trek to Deoria Tal about 2 km up the mountain at 2500 m next day morning at 8am. The night was cold but that's expected in these regions. I had a comfortable sleep and was excited about my first ever trekking trip.

A word of advice 

Be prepared to walk & climb a lot. You don't want to shock your muscles and experience severe cramps. So get your fitness up there before you plan for any trekking trip. If you are a first-time trekker, then this is the perfect expedition to enjoy the thrill of the Himalayas without going through hardcore pre-requisite trainings since the altitude is less than 4500m. Take care with regards to backpack, clothing and other protective gears like jackets, caps, gloves and good quality footwear. It is highly recommended to build enough leg strength and ample gym training. A good quality-walking pole or even a bamboo stick would help. Hydrating yourself frequently is very important.

Deoria Tal - Mesmerizing

A beautiful sunny morning welcomed us. We grabbed a quick breakfast at the Café and started our trek at about 7:30am. It is always advisable to carry water as well as some supplies like banana/dry fruits that would help you through the journey. Deoria Tal is frequented by a lot of tourists and the locals and therefore the route to the destination has been spruced up by rock pathways. The climb is relatively easier as compared to using the rugged natural ways through the mountain. We rested for a few minutes midway of the trek. There are provisions available for people to sit at strategic locations and enjoy the view of the valley from the top. In order to make your rest even more pleasant, there are a few stores that cater to some refreshments like hot/cold beverages and some snacks.

We reached the spot by 9:15 am. I must say this - the moment the spectacle of the lake with the white capped mountains in the background flashed before my eyes, a sudden reality check hit me - we are a miniscule fragment in this beautiful place called earth. It was bliss and beyond. According to Hindu mythology it is believed that it was the place from where the mighty Pandavas were asked questions by Yaksha (demon). We spent time around the lake capturing picturesque shots. The weather was indeed perfect for it. The reflections of Chaukhamba peak in the crystal clear water is mesmerizing. The view makes you forget everything else. You got to be there to experience it. 

The group - a happy bunch 😃

After sucking up all the fresh air and coming to terms with nature we began our descend. We were at the café by 1 pm, exhausted and very hungry.

I had a good sleep after an amazing lunch. It was kind of difficult to wake up in the evening because of the cool weather that set in across the mountains after the sunset. The temperature went down to single digit by 8 pm. All liquor lovers, a few shots of alcohol is recommended to beat the chill and a friend to share it with is a deadly combination. The stories and topics that spring up in our intoxicated mind still baffles me. But truly enjoyable times and to end it all, we had an amazing dinner. 

Tungnath & Chandrashila - Breathtaking

The Chopta-Tungnath-Chandrashila trek is one of the easier treks in the Himalayan region. If there are no clouds then the peaks of Panchchuli, Nanda Devi, Nilkanth and Kedarnath are all clear from the summit and make for a majestic sight. I was a first-timer and I would recommend this trek to people who are looking to get a hang of the basics of trekking. The Chandrashila peak provides a breathtaking 360-degree view of the valleys below. (provided there are no clouds).

The Tungnath Temple is the highest Shiva temple in the world situated at an altitude of 3680 meters. It is one of the Panch Kedars (five Hindu temples) and is believed to have been built almost 1000 years ago. If the legends are to be believed then Lord Ram carried out meditation to get himself released from the curse of Brahmahatya for killing Ravana.

In the morning at 7:30, my friend and I drove from Sari Village to Chopta that stands at 2680m. We parked the car and from there we started our trek to Chandrashila through Tungnath. Here too there is a paved rock path up until Tungnath. We climbed at a slow constant pace and rested in between. The ascend to Tungnath lent us some enchanting views of the Himalayas all around us. In 2 hours we reached Tungnath. We broke our journey to grab some food and needed rest before climbing to Chandrashila top at 4130m. The locals are very welcoming and the owner of this small restaurant was more than happy to make us feel at home. He served us steaming hot aloo paratha with some curd and pickle to go along. It was so delicious that I ended up having 2 more. We decided to climb to the top and visit the temple on the way back.

The climb from Tungnath to Chandrashila is through rough terrain especially the last stretch. We began our ascend at about 10 am. We continued the slow and steady pace up the mountain. We all know that as altitude increases the oxygen percentage in the atmosphere depletes. At an altitude of 3500m, the oxygen percentage comes down to 13.5% from 21% at ground level, and as we reach the summit the level further comes down to 11.5%.

The climb becomes all the more difficult. My heart was pounding so hard that it felt like it would pop out of my chest. My friend told me that it is normal and that I just relax and walk really slowly with short strides. I followed his instructions and I felt fine. For some, they could suffer Mountain Sickness besides symptoms ranging from headaches, uneasy stomach, lung problems etc. So it would be advisable to take precautions or even consult a doctor before you embark on a trekking expedition.

It took us about an hour to reach the Chandrashila top. The feeling I experienced would be difficult to put in words and how much ever I try, would not justify the moment. It was euphoric, a sense of accomplishment as if I have conquered the world. I was proud indeed to be standing at the top of the world at 13,550 feet, walking among the clouds. I spent about half an hour at the top clicking pictures and videos and more so just sinking in the reality that being a first timer I was able to complete it without any difficulties. Yes 'I did it'. We've seen images of mountains in so many places, but standing right up there and visualizing the sheer enormity of the mountains around you, makes you realize how minuscule we are in comparison. Truly an exhilarating trekking experience.

The decend may seem easy, but it is more difficult that the ascend because it takes a toll on your legs & feet. We descended at a slow leisurely pace, taking pictures and even stopping to give our legs some rest. We were back in Chopta by 3 pm and then drove back to the café. My legs were already very tired, had to extend a few more steps up to the café. I could feel the effort at every step I took, not cramps but my muscles were dead tired. I was tired and famished.

 I took a shower and slept for a few hours. The evenings are very cold during this time of the year. A cool breeze blows across the mountains making it even colder. I spent time with my friends at the recreation area, talking and laughing about our old corporate lives. Next stop - visit Sari village.

The videos show the climb to the Chandrashila summit and finally the magnificent view from the top. Truly breathtaking...........

 

 

 

Sari Village – Oct 14 

A small village called Sari is situated in Rudraprayag district near Ukhimath. At an altitude of 2000m the village is quiet, untouched by commercialization. The village serves as a base camp for treks to Deoria Tal, Chopta, Tungnath & Chandrashila. The villagers go about their daily lives rearing cattle, cutting grass for their livestock & farming. This is termed to be one of the most beautiful villages in Uttarakhand. Lush green landscapes adorn the village with pretty huts dotting in between. It gives a beautiful view from the Café. The Chandrashila peak overlooks the Sari village, in fact it is located bang center surrounded by mountains all around.

There are tea stalls selling refreshments and some small stores selling necessary provisions but agriculture is the primary source of livelihood for a large majority of the village people. There is a government school in the middle of the village.

We started late owing to the intense trekking the previous day. Three of us set for a tour of the village. The people of Sari are so welcoming, smiling all the time, the children especially want to be their best and get noticed. On the way I met these lovely kids in the school having their break. They huddled together when I took my mobile for a photo shoot. Some were giggling, some were very shy and yet some were very enthusiastic to show what they were capable of. What really caught my eyes were the kids cleaning their own school verandah and the path to their school. Truly, somethings never ceases to amaze me.

We walked through the village and most of them knew my friend. They greeted him and spent some time exchanging pleasantries. We went all around the village taking pictures of the women working in the farm and children playing. The people are devoid of social media, smart phones & the buzz of the metropolitan cities, yet they are so content and happy. It’s difficult not to notice their zeal, especially the older folks of the village, very forthcoming and it brings a smile on your faces.

Solo trek

I wasn’t going to just sit in the café and waste a whole day doing nothing. I was here to trek and trek I will do till I leave Sari 😊. My friend suggested to take the route to Chopta through the forest all the way up across the mountain and back down to Sari, which is a 5 hour trek, reaching heights of about 2700m. I was more than ready for this adventure. This is through the forest and I needed somebody who knows the terrain and the route otherwise I am sure to get lost in the jungles. The helper at the café is a resident of Sari and knew the route like the back of his hand. He obliged to navigate me through the rugged jungle route.

I was ready by 7:30 in the morning and Rakesh served me a wholesome plate of bread omelette & a cup of hot coffee. Sundar (my navigator) and I started to Deoria Tal and by 8:45 am we were there. From here on, the route was through the forest and rocky trail. The first point was at ‘Jhindi Dhar’, some even call it ‘Khiri top’. We were that at 10 am. The view from the top shows Sari village in the one side and the majestic Himalayan range on the other, displaying the snow covered Chaukhamba peak.

We went deep into the woods and at one stretch there was a stream flowing through. Crystal clear water and I did not hesitate to take a few sips. It was fresh and sweet and more over was thirsty with all the walking and climbing. Sundar my navigator was a walking machine, and throughout the 5 hours, I didn’t see him resting even for a moment, unless I took a break. The sounds of the forest buzzing in my ears and from our steps were all that I could hear. He was a few steps ahead of me and I was keeping up with him all the way. He was kind enough to check with me occasionally if I was alright walking at his pace. He’s led a few groups through this terrain and did not hesitate to compliment my efforts, especially because I was a first timer. I was proud of that :-).

I had a very tensed 20-25 minutes alone in the jungle, a very anxious few minutes that felt like hours 😊. Sundar had to part ways to meet a friend who lived away from the route to Sari. If he’d just gone, I wouldn’t have been so worried, but he requested me not to be scared and that there were no wild animals in these parts of the jungle. Human psyche tends to think the worse 😊.

The view around me during that dreaded 25 mins. Now you know what I really mean!!! :-)

A bright sunny day and the time was about 11:00. I was alone in a fairly open area and I had a good view around me. Thick forest to one side and a mountain on the other, a culvert where the path leads to Sari. The sound of the stream flowing below the culvert and the deafening sound of insects chirping set the scene for me to either confront my fear or avoid it. Of course, I have no control of the latter. Our minds are not trained to stay calm but the opposite. I placed myself in a strategic spot above the culvert where I had a view all around, should there be an emergency 😊, and started to pace left and right with my walking pole. I even looked at my escape route, which was a tree that I could easily climb and save myself. It may sound funny, but it’s the jungle and no souls in sight. The 25 minutes felt like an hour. I breathed a sigh of relief once he came and we began our descend to the Sari village.

We reached the café by 1 am. I covered over 8 km up the mountain from 2400m to 2700m and back, through forest & rocky terrain for someone who started to trek just 2 days back does need a pat on the back 😊. My friends and I had a wonderful lunch after which I had a deep 3 hour long sleep to recuperate from the morning expedition.

The last evening at Café Buransh. We wanted to have a special dinner. Rajini took care of it and our cook Rakesh made it possible. Nothing goes without a drink, especially when it comes to Malayalees. There is a saying from our state of Kerala, that if 2 Malayalees join hands, a bottle of liquor, is bound to be open and consumed without a doubt 😊. We were no exception and only upheld the pride of Kerala 😊 – if I may.

It was quite late when I returned to the room. I finished my packing and went to bed. The plan was to start at 9:30am to Rishikesh via Devprayag.

Devprayag – Godly Confluence 

I was ready by 8:30 am. We had breakfast and began our journey to Rishikesh by car. My friend drove all along. Our first stop was Devprayag (120 km) and then finally to Rishikesh from there on (74 km). The drive would typically take about 7 hours but we took a slow and relaxing drive, breaking our journey at Devprayag. We reached Devprayag at 15:30. I wanted to take a dip in the holy river Ganga.

  

Devprayag is positioned at an elevation of 830m. Dev means ‘God’ and Prayag means ‘confluence’. The last holy confluence of the Alaknanda River in shades of blue, where it meets the Bhagirathi River in shades of green to form ‘The Ganga’. Devprayag is one of the Panch Prayag (five confluences) of Alaknanda River. According to mythology, Lord Ram and his brother Lakshman performed a yajna (ritual) here to atone for killing Ravan, who was a Brahmin. The main temple of the town is the 'Raghunath Temple', dedicated to Lord Rama.

Devprayag is not as famous as the holy town of Haridwar and Rishikesh, which makes this a peaceful place to visit. We had to walk down and cross the bridge and pass through the narrow lanes to reach the Prayag. There are bathing ghats (a flight of steps leading down to a river) at multiple levels to accommodate different water levels during the monsoon. I came prepared for the dip.

The water was extremely cold and the currents were strong. I held the chain and took a step forward just to manage myself to take a dip. It was definitely a wonderful experience to be able to witness the sangam (confluence) and immerse in the holy Ganga (from where it is formed).

We began our onward journey to Rishikesh and by 7:00 we were there and checked in again at Bistro Nirvana. After freshening up we had a super dinner at the café cum restaurant. A great time spent with friends over a tasty meal and dessert. It was not until 11 pm we returned back to the room to get some sleep finally after a long and tiring journey.

Rishikesh Reloaded 

My flight was only at half past 4 in the evening so I had some time to get a quick tour of Ram Jhula and the famous Shiva statue on the banks of river Ganga. The river flows through the town of Rishikesh and it is famous for its various shrines and Yoga ashrams. Ram Jhula is one of the most popular attractions of Rishikesh. This bridge was constructed after the Laxman Jhula, in the year 1980. This one is also quite similar in design as Laxman Jhula and is a few kilometers downstream from it.

A super Arabic breakfast to start my day and an auto ride to Ram Jhula. My friend also accompanied me. The banks of river Ganga was abuzz with activities. Ferry services carrying travelers across the river and back were in full swing, lots of street vendors & shops doing their business. We were here by 11:30, it was pretty warm, crossed the bridge and walked towards Parmarth Niketan, an ashram that provides a clean, pure and sacred atmosphere to thousands of pilgrims, from all over the world. The ashram is the home to a 14 feet Shiva statue on the banks of Ganga which provides a perfect view to the ashram. I took a few pictures and sat in the ashram for a few minutes before we started back to our room.

My flight back to Bengaluru was on time. I took a cab and was at the Jolly Grant Airport by 3pm. I checked-in my luggage and moved on to the waiting lounge, sitting there and thinking about the past 5 days. It has been an exhilarating experience more than just being a memorable trip. This was something I wanted to do and feel that adrenaline rush when I scale the mountains. I made it happen and very glad I did.

The experience has not just been about the mountains, it’s been about a lot of other things, meeting an old friend, making new friends, witnessing how uncomplicated the lives of people are yet content, the innocence of the children I met at school & last but not the least, tasting the local arrack😁😃😃 .

Travel & Adventure awaits all, it is just the matter of finding it.

People say - The mountains will call you again. I guess I’m not done yet and will return with a new trekking expedition 😊.