Tuesday, November 29, 2022

The Mountains are calling...

(Please click on the pictures to view them in full-size)35 mins read

"Mountains will call you again" is a quote that makes complete sense. Ever since my first expedition to the Himalayas, a relentless urge to experience it all over again kept persuading me. It was time to take that plunge once more to relive the moment.

This time the destination was Bisudi Tal (located in Mandakini Valley near Chopta, Uttarakhand), a small pond formed in a depression of the wavy meadows, perched at an altitude of 3900m (12795 ft). The pond can be reached by trekking up to Bisudi dhar, the highest point of elevation of 4100m (13,451 ft) and descends gradually to Bisudi Tal.

Bisudi Tal

The trek offers everything a trekker could wish for - lush green meadows, enchanting forest trails, breathtaking mountain views, a glimpse of some wildlife (if you are lucky), and above all else the unending adventure. The journey to the destination was the most exciting part of the trek than the actual destination itself.

Bisudi Tal is a virgin trail as not many trekkers prefer venturing out on this arduous journey. The ascent to the highest peak doesn't come easy. One has to walk past long stretches of thick forests, narrow trails along the edges of the mountains with near-vertical drops on one side and steep climbs on slippery terrain. The weather also holds the key to our progress because rain can make the trek 10 times more difficult than it already is. The thrills and chills one encounter are rewarded finally with the breathtaking view of Mt Chaukhamba up close and personal. That's not all, you even get a glimpse of the Gangotri range of peaks and the Kedarnath Dome. If the weather does not play spoiled sport, these mountains start to reveal themselves as you make your way to Bisudi Tal.

Bisudi Tal

The exhilarating experience will remain with you for a lifetime.

How to reach Bisudi Tal? 

The starting point of the trek is from Sari Village, Uttarakhand. The best way is to fly to Dehradun and from there make your trip to Rishikesh (20km drive). You could stop over here and later take a taxi to Sari village. (about 6-7 hours to cover 190km).

The route we took
Day 1Drive from Sari village via Ukhimath to Burua village. (28km, 1 hour, 1600m)
Trek from Burua to Lower Tingri Bugyal (12km, 5-6 hours, 3000m) 
Day 2Trek from Tingri Bugyal to Chajmani (7km, 7 hours, 3820m)
Day 3Trek from Chajmani to Bisudi Dhar (4km, 2 hours, 4100m)
             Descend to Bisudi Tal (30 mins, 3900m)
             Trek back to Upper Tingri Bugyal (11km, 4 hours, 3100m)
Day 4Trek from Tingri Bugyal to Burua (12km, 5 hours, 1600m)


Bugyals
- are natural meadows formed at higher altitudes (3300m to 4000m) of the Himalayas in the Indian state of Uttarakhand. They are called "nature’s own gardens". Shepherds use to graze their cattle here during the summer season. These meadows are vital to the ecosystem and need to be conserved.

There are many alternative routes to reach Bisudi Tal. One way would be via Deoriatal, Tali, and Chitra Vadar to Bisudi Tal. Another way would be to start from Chopta and reach Chitragupha 15 km away from Bisudi Tal.




Prologue

I personally research to a great extent to include information that could help other trekking enthusiasts, if they decide to visit Bisudi Tal. I interweave my thoughts and experiences to make the read more interesting (so I presume).  

This is my candid experience, which I would like to share with my well-wishers and readers. So here goes....

The plan for a 2nd trekking trip was always in the offing, but Covid disrupted my first attempt. Then it had to be kept aside until the thought reappeared this year in August. My friend (co-owner of Café Buransh) and I discussed the destination and planned for the final dates. I personally wanted to do a more challenging feat than my first expedition. We both agreed and after much discourse and deliberations, we chose Bisudi Tal to be the hotspot to reckon for. There were 2 more additions to our group, doctors from Kozhikode, 1 was an ex-trekker and the other was a fresher (though he had extensive knowledge of the terrain, right from the routes, the camping points and the geographical significances of the many treks in the Garhwal Himalayan mountain ranges).

It was a 4-day trek (Sept 19 - Sept 22) starting from Burua village to Bisudi Tal and back. A vertical height of about 2.5kms, covered over trekking for about 23kms (one-way). We began at an altitude of 1600m and trek right up to the peak at 4100m. It would take 3 days to reach the highest peak and a day to return to base. The plan was to camp at 2 spots upwards and 1 spot downwards. There were 3 shepherds who joined us as well to carry our tents/sleeping bags and food rations and primarily to serve as our guiding star to the final destination. (They are local shepherds who know the mountains like the back of their hands and provide such services to trek enthusiasts for a meagre price). There is more to tell about them, which I have tried to elaborate in my travelogue.

This journey to Bisudi Tal was an experience of a lifetime, not just for the trek itself but about being with the local shepherds and knowing their ways of life. I was truly amazed by their friendliness, generosity and welcoming nature to people they have just met.

The Arrival - Sept 17, 2022

My flight to Dehradun via Delhi from Bengaluru was on time. I took this route as the direct flight to Dehradun costs were off the roof. I got a good return offer that was less than half of the direct one except for the long transit times between flights. But I used facilities at the executive lounges for free, some privileges of using credit cards.

I landed at Dehradun at half past 6 in the evening. It didn't take too long for my luggage and in about 30 mins I was out. My pre-booked taxi to Rishikesh was waiting for me. It took about 45 mins to reach Green Valley cottage where I had booked a room for the night. The doctors had arrived earlier and the plan was to meet them. They were staying just down the road at Swiss cottage and we met at the cafe over there. We got to know each other and our discussion shifted to the purpose of our visit - how would we manage this tough trek? would our body be able to endure the harsh conditions? Are we prepared mentally? An apprehensive mood prevailed but we quickly put it behind us by convincing ourselves that We Can, We Must and We Will. We departed to our rooms and called it a night as we had to travel to Sari the next day at 5am.

I wasn't yet done for the evening. I was hungry as hell and wanted something nice to eat before I hit the bed. Bristo Nirvana (a place to be) was just downstairs from where I stayed. It is a magnificent café-cum-restaurant. The restaurant caters to world cuisine, ranging from Indian, Mediterranean, Italian, American and others. I ordered chicken momos for starters and chicken steak as the main course. It was delicious and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

I would recommend this place, especially if you are looking for non-vegetarian dishes. You won't be blown away but will definitely be happy you had a decent experience. A nice place to be.


The Journey - Sept 18, 2022

We were joined by another old friend who I had befriended during my first trip to Sari. She assists my friend in managing the business at Café Buransh. All of us were ready by 5 am and we were on our way to Sari.

Sari is located about 190 km from Rishikesh. The best time to start would be early in the morning to avoid peak-hour traffic jams. It took us about 7 hours to reach Sari. The road follows the path of the Ganga all the way to Devaprayag where officially the River Ganga is formed by the merging of two rivers, Alakananda and Bhagirathi. We dropped at a local restaurant for breakfast on the way. Hot and fresh Aloo paratha with some curd. It was delicious. From then on, the road follows the path of the Alakananda river up until Rudraprayag (confluence of rivers Alaknanda and Mandakini). The Ertiga taxi ride cost us Rs 8000 (2k per head).

We reached Sari at 1pm. Café Buransh is up the mountain and takes a bit of a strenuous walk to get there. Steep rock paths lead you to the café. The weather was perfect.

 

We were served a sweet Buransh drink (the Himalayan flower drink). Buransh flower is a bright red coloured flower that grows in the Himalayas. It is said that the juice is heart-healthy and provides relief to respiratory diseases.

We were very hungry after the long drive. A sumptuous lunch awaited us. The credit goes to the chef, Rakesh. A smiling and energetic young lad who would go the extra mile to make the customers happy. After our meal, relaxed in the recreational area watching the mountains & valleys around us. The weather was perfect, the sun shining and I used the opportunity for some nature shoots. The only sound amid the beauty and serenity around the cafe was the gentle breeze stirring the leaves of the trees. It was soothing to my ears. If you can't be in awe of Mother nature then nothing will ever satisfy your heart.

After sunset, the temperature dropped and we had to get into some warm clothes. All of us spent the evening over some whiskey (to beat the cold) and a tasty meal to go with it. We laid out the plan for tomorrow and if the weather gods were kind to us, we would drive to Burua at 6 am and begin our ascend by 9 am. I packed my backpack with all necessities and other paraphernalia for a 4-day trekking expedition. 

Day 1 - Sept 19, 2022

Anything that can go wrong will go wrong at the worst possible time. The rain gods were evidently not too happy or should I say not supporting our cause. It was pouring rain the whole night and the same continued in the morning. We had to wait and watch how nature played out. It wasn't the best start to our expedition but we didn't get ourselves to sink into it rather were positive about making up for the lost time. It was about 9 am when the sky started to clear gradually and the rains subsided. It was time.

We got into our trekking gear with our backpack and the most important accessory for a safe trekking experience - the hiking/trekking pole. It aids in balance on uneven trails and provides a better posture while walking. We were all set by 10 am and on our way in the car to Burua village.

The 3 shepherds who would be accompanying us with our essentials (tents/sleeping bags/food) joined us over there. Don't be misled by the name 'shepherds', they are local people who provide such services to trekking enthusiasts for some money. This is like an extra income for them.

Vinod was the leader of the group. He offered us to have lunch at his friend Bona's (another shepherd who was then staying at Tingri Bugyal managing his herd of sheep) home at Burua before we began our trek. We readily accepted and to our surprise, his family made us feel at home. They served us a simple lunch that was delicious and satisfying.

Finally, it was the moment we'd been waiting for. We drove to the spot where the road ended, and parked the car safely. 1 pm on the dial and we were all set to start. We lost nearly 4 hours due to the rain, so our camping location shifted to lower Tingri Bugyal. The location would take us 5-6 hours to reach and by then it would get dark. We were literally racing against time because that's the nearest place suitable for camping.

The altitude we started from was approximately 1600m and the nearest camping site was at nearly 3000m. The shepherds led the way and we followed them. The weather was ideal, with scattered clouds, providing some shade from time to time. The rock path was narrow most parts of the way. We were moving at a slow but steady pace, one of the best ways to follow while on a trek. Your legs and body will feel the effort during the initial phase of your walk, the key is to not stop but go at a pace that is most comfortable to you.

You will gradually feel your legs and body gets adjusted to your pace and the walk becomes more comfortable. It makes our body the ability to endure. The ascend was getting harder as I moved along, at some points, the inclination was up to about 30 to 60 degrees. In order to give you some perspective any inclination more than 70 degrees need some kind of a harness to climb.

We took short breaks in between to give our legs some rest and to fuel our bodies. It is important to carry enough water to keep your body hydrated and healthy snacks for energy. Nuts, dry fruits and seed mixes are all good and quick sources of energy and protein. Your body is subjected to strenuous exercise, so try to eat and drink on the go. Another option would be to either mix glucose in your water or consume it directly in powder form. We used these short breaks to refuel ourselves.

At about 3:10pm (2250m) we reached a 'channi' (shepherd's hut). It is common in this part of the region to find such huts, these are predominantly made from granite slabs and used by the shepherds to shelter their herds and for them during summer. We took a longer break here before the steep climb to Tingri Bugyal. The rain started to pour again. We couldn't afford to wait but to start. I put on my rain poncho and so did others in their rain gear. We resumed the ascend in the rain. The climb just became tougher for 2 reasons, one for the rain and the other, the trail became slippery and muddy. It took us about 90 mins to cover an elevation of 250m in the rain. Luckily the rains stopped and we had a few minutes to rest our legs. 

Rain poncho back into the backpack and we resumed the last stretch of the day. But it wasn't too long before a light drizzle started again. The temperature slowly started to dip as evening set in and visibility was also getting poorer. We were getting a little desperate to reach the camping site. In the distance, we could hear Bona's goats bleating and the dogs barking, our camp was not too far away. We finally reached the site at about 6:30pm. The rains stopped, to our relief and it was going to be a long night.

The tent was already erected by the time we reached. The temperature dropped further and we changed to warmer clothes. The rains added to the chillness in the air. We were in the middle of the forest at 3000m, among a herd of sheep and goats, a few shepherd dogs and the only light was from the lamp in Bona's channi. The team was busy cooking dinner for us. Our tent was strategically set up away from the channi,  down the hill, where the ground was relatively flatter than the rest. It was pitch dark and we had to use our mobile lights to walk up to Bona's hut. Somehow we managed to sit together while Bona and the others were preparing dinner. The menu for the night was sheep meat soup and rotis.

How did they manage sheep meat? Here's what they told us. During the previous night, one of the sheep was attacked by a leopard. It wasn't dead but as good as one. They relieved it of its misery soon enough. Now that's some food for thought.

We gathered around the traditional wood stove watching Bona prepare the meat. With bare amenities available at hand, we knew what to expect. He was overly excited to share his life experiences in the forest where he lives during the summer. It's like a nomadic life, all alone with his herd and dogs for nearly 6 months. During winter he moves to his village with the herd as the conditions here become unsuitable for living. This is the story of all shepherds who make a living in this part of the world. I am told there are only a few people in his generation to follow such a life, maybe the last of their kind. He mentioned his children, who are going to school and will move on to other forms of livelihood than their traditional ones. He was only happy that their lives are changing but apprehensive about his future.


The temperature was at 10c-12c and the heat from the stove was comforting. Nevertheless, we had carried whiskey and a few swigs helped to beat the chilly breeze. The mutton and roti were finally ready. Bona and the others served us on paper plates like generous hosts. I must say the meat wasn't cooked well, but we were extremely hungry, had it without complaining. Bona and others had their share after we finished our round.

This is my first experience sleeping inside a tent in the middle of the forest. It's not a comforting feeling given the fact we are in the jungle and anything could happen. But I signed up for it, there is no other option but to experience it. 3 of us in the tent and 1 in the hut with the shepherds. The tent has some space in the front to keep our shoes/bags outside the sleeping area and at the same time safe from the rain. 3 of us snuggled into our thermals, gloves and socks. Finally, before we stretched our legs, zipped our tents shut to keep us warm from the breeze outside. We joked - "See you tomorrow if we don't succumb to an animal attack". 

I must've slept for an hour or so before I was woken up by the sound of the raindrops falling on our tent. The rain started to get heavier and so did the sound. My first thought was about getting wet from above or beneath our tent. Imagine yourself in a pitch-black surroundings and all you can hear is the raindrops falling on the tent and outside your tent. Would the slope give away due to the heavy rain and wash us down the mountain? To make matters worse, there were sounds of something walking past the tent and more often than not, they became so conspicuous that I feared the worst. My mind was going wild with unpleasant thoughts about it being a bear or a leopard looking for food, or even a snake. There was no end to my imagination. The situation became worse with the dogs barking and running around as if chasing or being chased. I just couldn't sleep peacefully and only hoped it would be morning sooner than later. I was surprised how my 2 friends next to me were snoring away while there was so much happening around us. There were moments when I thought about quitting. I fell asleep from time to time because I was physically tired but it wasn't a sound sleep as I would've expected. A night to remember for all the wrong reasons.

Day 2 - Sept 20, 2022

The light of dawn seeped into the tent. I rubbed my bleary eyes and sat up. The mobile showed 7am. I crawled up to unzip the tent and stepped outside. The first rays of sunlight lit up the forest, streaming through the gaps of the trees, a sight that was so appealing to the eyes. 

It was a chilly morning and we needed some warm water to freshen ourselves. Bona and the gang were up already and busy with their routines. They gave us what we needed and that helped to wash our faces and brush our teeth. Nature's call is answered by nature itself. It may sound disgusting but when trekking for a couple of days, holding back the urge is not an option. The best way is to find a spot, dig a small hole, do your business, use toilet paper (not wet wipes as they are not easily biodegradable), and cover it with dirt, together with some leaves and branches. You have done a good job.

It was time to start but not before some hot Maggie noodles and tea made from fresh goat milk. I took the time to play with the Himalayan sheepdog while our tents/sleeping bags were being packed. These dogs are closely related to the much larger Tibetan mastiff. They are known as bhotia, bangara or gaddi kutta locally and are found in the Himalayan foothills. The breed is primarily used as a livestock guardian, protecting cows and sheep from predators. If you notice, there is a metal collar around their necks, this is to protect them from any leopard/bear attacks.

At about 9am we began our trek up the mountain. The plan was to reach our camping site at Chajmani (3820m). It would take us 7-8 hours to cover 7 km and an elevation of 820m. We are faced with another challenge now. The air pressure diminishes as we go up and breathing becomes difficult. The climb became more strenuous and each step feels laboured. Your breathing becomes faster and your heart starts to beat faster. These are normal responses and it means your body is coping well with the altitude. The key is to climb slowly, take frequent breaks and hydrate yourself sufficiently. This is not a race anyways.

The surroundings gradually transitioned to trees that are stunted, sparse or deformed from lush green ones that formed the forest canopy. This forms the tree line where the trees are short and less dense, above which they are unable to grow at all due to environmental conditions. The tree line is usually well-defined but it can be a gradual transition. The elevation of the tree line ranges from 3200m to 4000m in the Himalayas. Once the treeline ends we come out of the forest to the lush green meadows up until Bisudi Tal.

We reached upper Tingri by 10:30am. It was time for a break. We met another shepherd, a very old man, he was kind enough to offer us some tea. He, like others, spends his summer here in his channi with his herd. We thanked him and resumed our journey. A long way to go.

The destination looked close from afar, maybe an hour away, but seemed like it was moving farther away from us as we tried to catch up. Grass, shrubs and bushes replaced the trees and green meadows as far as the eyes can see. The sight was delightful but my legs were not so comforting. It was being subjected to vigorous physical torture (if I may). The positive side to this was that I never got any leg cramps and neither did any of my friends. 8 weeks of training does prepare your body for endurance. There were many steep and narrow rocky stretches around the edge of the mountains that were not only difficult to climb but excruciating. I pushed myself slowly and steadily, and so did my friends. We took another break for lunch. There were some leftovers from last night (roti and mutton). We had it and rested for a few minutes. There comes the rain again. Rain poncho out and we set out to our final ascend for the day.

It was getting tougher and tougher but we made it through the grass, mud, slush, puddles, rocks, mountain edges, boulders and steep slopes. It was 4:30pm when we reached an elevation of  3850m. The temperature was at about 12-15c, gentle breeze blowing against our faces, the mountaintop veiled in a fine mist, behold the view. A breathtaking spectacle of the mountains around you as far as the eye can see. We took pictures and shot videos. We simply sat on the grass and enjoyed the mountain view.

A familiar sight across the mountaintop are these piles of rocks, that are stacked and balanced on top of each other, usually on the edges of the mountains. These are man-made and I asked one of the shepherds. It is believed to be a gesture to ask for a wish or good fortune for the person stacking them. Some believe it is done as an act of atonement.


We were exhausted but at the same time elated we made it this far. Bisudi Tal was within reach. But not until tomorrow morning. We camp here at Chajmani. Our man took a beautiful spot for our tents overlooking the Garhwal Himalayan mountain ranges (Chaukhamba, Nanda Devi, Kedarnath) next to a partly pulled-down channi with some space for cooking and dining (nature style). The shepherds were busy preparing the fire to cook dinner. It was going to be rice and mutton curry (fresh meat was still in the baggage). It was getting really cold, and the four of us changed into warmer clothes and snuggled into our tent. We began what we do best - get our bodies warm with a few swigs of alcohol (whiskey). There wasn't any dearth of topics - our climb and experience to politics to philosophy to spiritualism (in that order). I presume you read between the lines.





We had our dinner by 7:30pm. All of us sat together on the available space over the stones and relished the mutton curry with rice. A chilly night indeed and by 8 we were all zipped inside our tent. The 2nd night was much more comfortable than my first. It was a calm night and I got some sleep if not the best. 


Day 3 - Sept 21, 2022

I was awake before sunrise and waited for the sun to show up. The sky was relatively clear, with some scattered clouds, the sun made its appearance and the light fell across the meadows in front of my eyes. A spectacle that is hard to describe in words. The pictures say it all.

Breakfast was channa dal and coffee. Natural proteins before the final climb to the summit. We began to trek up to Bisudi Dhar (the highest point) and then descend to Bisudi Tal. It would take us about 2 hours and 30 mins to cover 4kms. Time check  8:30am. Let's go.....

It is a steep ascent but the views around you are so mesmerizing that you forget about the hardship of the climb. Kedarnath dome and Madani made their appearance in between the passing clouds. Chaukamba peak starts making its appearance. I could clearly make out the difference in the view from Deoriatal and now. This is magnified 10 times. Due to the overcast conditions, we couldn't see the peak most of the time.


It took us 2 hours to reach the summit at an elevation of approximately 4100m. 

I made it. We made it.

It's been a thrilling experience for me and my friends. The last 3 days gave us new challenges but we embraced them and climbed up against all the odds to the top of the mountain. The sense of accomplishment is magnified not only because of the stunning view from the top but how we managed to climb it. Words would only fall short of what we felt at that moment.


It is when you stand amongst the mountains that you realize how tiny you are.
An indescribable feeling. I punched the air, laughed, smiled, and was ecstatic. Finally, when I digested the reality, I took a moment to look down at my feet. I couldn't help but smile.😀😀

We get an aerial view of Bisudi Tal from the summit. In the picture, it looks very close but it's a descent of about 600m to reach. We get to see snow-clad mountains on one side and lust green forest on the other while we walk through perfectly manicured green meadows down to Bisudi Tal. After another 30 mins, we reached Bisudi Tal, the high-altitude pond. 

Bisudi Tal is a small pond of about 100-150 meters in diameter formed in the middle of the meadows. After an adventurous trek, sitting on the bank of the Tal, we savoured the moment of our victory. The mood was accentuated by the serenity of the surroundings and the breathtaking views of mount Chaukamba and other ranges of mountains.

There is a small shrine Kshetrapal Mandir just next to the Tal. We offered our prayers and spent about 30 mins clicking pictures.

Bisudi Tal



The Descend - Sept 21, 2022
We took the same route we came and headed to Tingri Bugyal. The descent was as tough as the climb if not more but quicker. We started at 11:30am from Bisudi Tal, up towards Bisudi Dhar and then steep descent towards Tingri Bugyal. Rain struck when we were at the toughest downward stretch. It was a narrow rocky path and passes through a treacherous landslide zone. In our rain ponchos, it's tough to see straight, we were hunched looking at our feet to be sure we take the right step forward. 

Misadventure turned away

My friend was ahead of me and I was following him. We reach the landslide zone, quite unaware of it at that moment. He steps ahead to the right and sits on the rock, then drags his body to the other rock a little below it. I was just behind him, and my head turned toward the left to see the actual trail that we should be taking. He is oblivious to the fact that his next step would as well be his last because it's a vertical drop of about 200m.

I immediately realized the danger and shout out to stop and hold his arm. It was at the same moment his legs started to slip from the loose rocks underneath. He turns towards me, acknowledges and grips my arm. The person behind me watching the commotion in front of him clutches my friend's other arm and we pull him up with all our force. He couldn't pull up his feet as his long rain poncho comes in the way. Nevertheless, we pull him to safety in the nick of time and averted an imminent mishap. We all breathed a sigh of relief.

Much to our relief, the rains stopped. We took frequent breaks and also had lunch on the way. 30 mins before we reached Tingri Bugyal, the rain came down hard. It was pouring cats and dogs. 

We kept walking and by 4:30pm we reached the old man's channi (shepherd's hut). We all took shelter inside. Tents wouldn't be possible to be fixed in this heavy rain so we all had to spend the night in the channi.

The old man’s hut was his home and we were going to stay without giving him any prior warning? The shepherds dealt with it and we didn't see any kind of disapproval from him. The rain finally stopped. It was pretty cold as well. 

In any normal circumstances, for anyone to adapt to the conditions of the hut where I would be spending the night, takes some change away from their comfort zone. It is not about the place being unsuitable but more about being unrefined or dingy. The move is not everyone's cup of tea.

Dinner was rice pudding. There is a strange or rather interesting custom the local people follow. Rice once cooked would not be consumed sitting inside the hut but outside of it. It was raining and I remember we waited for it to stop before we were requested to proceed outside the hut and have dinner. My friend had given us a heads-up about this tradition and experienced it as well. We did not question the reason but accepted it gracefully. We had to hurry before the rain started pouring again.  

You can see it clearly from the picture, but the old man has used the space efficiently. There is a wood stove for cooking as soon as you enter the hut and on the other side a pile of dried wood to fuel the fireplace and in between are sacks of provisions for his survival. 4 of us had to utilize the remaining space to sleep. Just attached to his hut is the sheep shed. You can imagine the stench in the air. It was a peculiar smell of smoke and sheep droppings. It was prominent when we entered his hut but gradually we got used to the air. 

Large blankets were spread on the granite floor just enough for us to squeeze in. The man of the house (hut) had a reserved space next to the fireplace. 

We lay in our places by 7pm. It was not comfortable but given the conditions, it was a safe place to sleep. It was raining throughout the night. There were small openings on the wall that was next to where I slept and only one thought kept disturbing me, what if a snake gets through. So you can guess how well I slept. Nevertheless, I managed to sleep for a few hours.

Day 4 - Sept 22, 2022

We were up by 6:30am. After a quick morning routine, had coffee and breakfast - a preparation from jaggery and wheat flour. I didn't enjoy it personally but had it anyways. The rain had stopped but was cloudy. After the rains, the meadows were looking greener and the cattle were making the best out of it.


The old man went about his regular routines while we were ready to leave. We thanked him for his hospitality and resumed our journey downwards. The time was 8:45am. We had to descend a vertical height of about 1.5km, trekking a distance of 12km. We expected to reach in 5-6 hours. 

We were entering the forest once again. The ground was slippery due to the overnight rain which made our descent slow. On this trail, we were lucky to spot a few langurs up on the branches of a tree. They were visibly scared and were cautiously staring at us. We moved on. The weather was pleasant throughout our descent which helped us a great deal. We took breaks as usual and rejuvenated ourselves with glucose, dried fruits and seed mixes.

The main topic of discussion while we nearing Burua village was "FOOD". It has been 4 days since we had a proper meal. We were surviving on mainly dry fruits and small portions of whatever the shepherds prepared for us. One of the doctors suggested chicken biryani and we all looked at each other and smiled. Unanimously agreed. I was definitely looking forward to it. We reached Burua at about 1:45pm, that's 5 hours of trekking. We were ahead of time.

All of us were happy we made it in one piece. Joyous of the fact that we did it. I was proud of my accomplishment and I am sure the others felt it too. For an amateur like me, this achievement can be compared to any professional who had surpassed his or her mountaineering goals.

We had lunch at Bona's home again on invitation from the shepherds. A quick one and we were off to the Cafe Buransh homestay. We bought chicken meat on the way for our celebratory dinner. We were in the room by 4:30pm. My first priority was to get myself a good hot shower, it has been 4 days since I took a bath. All of us were in the recreational area by 6pm. I instructed Rakesh (cook) to cook his best biryani and whatever he could to make it a great evening. He was more than happy and got right into the job.

I had reserved a bottle of scotch for this very purpose. There could not be a better time than now for a toast with friends. It's time to reminisce about the past days and rejoice in our success.

One bottle for four of us. May we have the health to challenge ourselves for another adventure. Cheers!!!! 
Rakesh made chicken fry as the starter which was finger-licking good. That went well with the whisky and in no time the bottle was empty. Dinner was served, Chicken biryani, Raitha, papad and cucumber salad. It was delicious. We complimented Rakesh for such a delectable dinner.
















Rest day - Sept 23, 2022

A rest day today. We needed it after a physically challenging 4 days. We just lazed around in the morning, packed our bags and post lunch we went for a ride to Chopta located about 50kms from Sari. It took us about 1 hour 45 mins to reach.

Chopta serves as the base for trekking to Tungnath (one of the Shiva temples of the Panch Kedar) and Chandrashilla. 

My first experience of the mountains. Chopta is known as the mini Switzerland of Uttarakhand (at an altitude of 2608m). It is surrounded by meadows and pristine snow-capped peaks. We spent about an hour there spotting the route we made from Burua to Bisudi Tal.





Our route to the top










We were just winding up in the evening and ensured all was packed. Our flights were late in the afternoon and had to start by 5am to make it to the Dehradun airport. We had dinner and went to bed early.

The Return - Sept 24, 2022

We left Sari village on time and made our way to Jolly Grant Airport. My flight back to Bengaluru was on time. The doctors had an early flight as their destination was Kozhikode. I went to the lounge and had lunch. I was sitting there and thinking about the past 5 days. It had been an exhilarating experience more than just an unforgettable trek.

I could never forget Nikhil doctor with his philosophical debates, Jithu doctor with his knowledge about the Himalayan ranges, the shepherds with their humbleness and last but not least, our very own Randeep, without whom our trek wouldn't have been possible.


Life is a struggle for everyone, upward and forever upward. Life becomes enjoyable when we find ways to fulfill our dreams and our passion. That's what life means and what life is for because when we look back at our life that's what we will ever remember, not the time we spend at work or the long hours we spend in front of our TV. We must be able to remember a day that truly mattered and today could be that day, the day you embraced your passion, the day you embraced life. For me, that day was when the journey began.

So go and climb that mountain....