A journey through the ruins of Hampi

The thought of visiting Hampi had been on our mind for several years, but it finally became a reality in December 2024. As an obsessive planner, I began my research before our trip, wanting to visit all the major sites within five days. Latha and I, a history buff and a nature lover respectively, were eager to explore the historical, boulder-strewn landscape of this ancient capital city for an unforgettable experience.

 

Hampi is located in central Karnataka in the Bellary district at a distance of 352km from Bengaluru. You can reach Hampi by air, rail or road. The nearest city is Hospet (officially Hosapete), about 13 kilometres away, which serves as the primary access point for travellers.

 

The night train from Bengaluru to Hospet seemed to be the best option, giving us a full day on arrival to begin our trip. We boarded the Hampi Express (16592) from Yeswanthpur Junction at 10:05 PM and quickly settled into our berths. The following morning, at 7:05 AM, we arrived in Hospet.

 

We hired an auto-rickshaw from the station for the 13 km drive to Hampi. We chose to stay at Clarks Inn, Hampi, which is located in Kamalapur, opposite the Archaeological Survey of India Museum. Its prime location made it an ideal base, offering easy access to the sites and ruins. We stayed there for three nights and four days, from December 19 to 22, and had a satisfactory experience.

 

History

A short history would provide the context before I delve into our journey.

 

HAMPI, once the thriving capital of the Vijayanagara empire and now a UNESCO World Heritage site, evokes strong feelings in those who appreciate its unique mix of history and architecture. Its monumental complexes and elaborate carvings tell a story of a glorious past. The majestic grandeur appeals especially to the curious and adventurous, but may not resonate with everyone.

The Vijayanagara Empire lasted for approximately 300 years, from its founding in 1336 until its final dissolution in 1646. It was established by the brothers Harihara and Bukka Raya of the Sangama dynasty, who made Vijayanagara (present-day Hampi) their capital and a powerful Hindu stronghold to resist invasions in southern India. The empire reached its zenith under the Tuluva dynasty, particularly during the reign of Krishnadevaraya (1509–1529), which is regarded as its golden age of prosperity, cultural brilliance, and military strength. At its height, Vijayanagara was the largest and most powerful empire in India.

 

The Empire came to a dramatic end in the 16th century. The decisive Battle of Talikota in 1565 became the turning point for the empire, when the united forces of the Deccan Sultanates (five powerful Muslim-ruled kingdoms in the Deccan region of South India) led to the devastation of the capital city of Vijayanagara. The victorious armies plundered and destroyed the magnificent city. Temples, palaces and markets were set ablaze, sculptures were mutilated. Hampi, once one of the richest cities in the world, was reduced to ruins almost overnight. Although the empire lingered on, it never regained its past glory. By the mid-17th century, Vijayanagara had disintegrated completely.

 

Let me take you on this beautiful journey....

Day 1 - December 19

 

We checked into the hotel room, freshened up, and got ready to explore the ruins of Hampi. We were not exhausted by the journey, thanks to a good night's sleep on the train. The restaurant served a decent spread, ranging from South Indian delicacies to some continental choices. We chose a mix and were all set for the day.

 

You can hire an auto-rickshaw, a scooter/motorbike, or even use your own vehicle to commute around Hampi. I would highly recommend getting an authorised tour guide for a more enriching experience, as they provide historical context, explain local folklore, and offer deeper insights into the temples and ruins, which would be difficult to grasp otherwise. The monuments are spread over a large area. A local auto-rickshaw driver and a professional guide can navigate the best routes, saving you significant time and effort.

 

We got ourselves an ASI-assigned guide and an auto-rickshaw for the next 4 days.

 

The Vittala Temple is one of the most iconic monuments of the Vijayanagara Empire. It is renowned for its architectural brilliance and intricate craftsmanship. It was built in the 15th century during the reign of King Devaraya II and was later expanded by Krishnadevaraya. The temple was never completed, yet it stands as the finest example of Vijayanagara architecture.

The temple complex houses the famous Stone Chariot, one of the three most celebrated stone chariots in India. The temple is also famed for its musical pillars in the Maha Mantapa (Great Hall). When tapped lightly, each pillar produces musical notes resembling different instruments. These pillars are now protected, and visitors are no longer permitted to strike them, due to damage from excessive demonstrations in the past.

The structures are richly carved with mythical themes, divine figures, and celestial beings from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, and we were in awe of the sheer perfection of every sculpture and carving. The ancient artisans who created it without modern tools demonstrated incredible ingenuity. I doubt if today's technology would be able to match their skills.

The Pattabhirama Temple is a large temple complex noted for its impressive scale and spacious layout, though it is less frequently visited by tourists compared to the central Hampi sites.

The Queen's Bath is a royal structure located near the entrance of the Royal Enclosure. The interior is elaborately decorated and reflects a blend of Indo-Islamic architectural styles.

The Royal Enclosure is one of the most fascinating parts of the ruined city. It served as the seat of power and residence for the royal family. This extensive walled complex, where kings ruled, held court and showcased the empire's wealth and power.

Mahanavami Dibba (Dasara Dibba): This is one of the most prominent structures in the enclosure. It is a massive, multi-tiered stone platform from which the king and his court watched processions and celebrations during the Mahanavami (Dasara) festival.

Stepped Tank (Pushkarni) - This beautiful stepped water tank was excavated in the mid-1980s. It is a tiered structure crafted from rectangular black granite pieces that were possibly brought from elsewhere. The slabs used for the construction are not found anywhere near Hampi. It was likely used for ceremonial purposes.

The Elephant Stable is built to house the royal elephants of the Vijayanagara Empire.

 

The Lotus Mahal is known for its unique architecture that beautifully blends Hindu and Islamic styles. It is believed to have been a social space for royal women.

We wanted to witness the sunset before we headed back to the hotel room. Hampi is famous for its dramatic sunsets, where the sun casts its golden glow over the boulder-strewn landscape. An experience not to be missed. One of the best spots to watch the sunset is Malyavanta Hill, Hampi's highest point which offers a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of the entire city, including the Tungabhadra River. The hill is also home to the Malyavanta Raghunatha Temple. According to the Hindu epic Ramayana, Lord Rama and Lakshmana stayed here during the monsoon season while searching for Sita. The temple is still an active place of worship.

The sunset was a peaceful and tranquil experience, providing a spectacular and memorable moment to reflect on our journey thus far.

 

Day 2 - December 20

 

We were all set to explore new sites at 9 am. We began our day visiting the Hazara Rama temple. It is located at the heart of the Royal Enclosure, dedicated to Lord Rama, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. As the name of the temple suggests "Temple of a Thousand Rama", referring to scenes from the Ramayana carved on its walls. This temple served as a private temple for the royal family.

The Lakshmi Narasimha Statue is the largest monolith in the ruined city, standing at approximately 6.7 meters (22 feet) in height. The statue carved out of a single granite boulder depicts Lord Narasimha, the fourth incarnation of Lord Vishnu, in his half-man, half-lion form. It was originally depicted with Goddess Lakshmi seated on his left thigh, but her statue was damaged and removed during the invasion.

The Krishna Temple, built by the king Krishnadevaraya dedicated to Lord Balakrishna (child Krishna). It is a classic example of Dravidian style architecture. The walls and pillars of the complex are covered in detailed carvings of the life of Krishna's childhood, showcasing the engineering brilliance of its era. A spacious courtyard. The temple was plundered during the Deccan Sultanates and stands partly in ruins now.

The Virupaksha Temple is one of the oldest and historically significant temples of South India. The origin of this temple dates to the 7th century but was expanded during he Vijayanagara period. It is dedicated to the Lord Shiva. The Eastern Gopuram (Gateway tower) is a nine-tiered structure reaching 50 meters in height and is adorned figures of gods and mythical creatures. The tower is a landmark visible from far across Hampi.

One of the temple's most intriguing features is an inverted shadow of its main tower, projected onto a wall inside the temple – a fascinating architectural marvel.

The coracle ride is one of the unique experiences the heritage town offers that allows you to see the ancient landscape from the Tungabhadra River. A coracle is a traditional, round-shaped boat made of bamboo, cane and leather sheets. We were definitely not going to miss the opportunity. There is a ferry crossing close to Virupaksha Temple, where coracle boatmen offer rides that provides breathtaking views of the iconic boulder-strewn hills, ancient ruins, and temples along its banks.

It was indeed a wonderful experience. Two couples joined us in the coracle—one a retired couple and the other a newly married couple. They made the ride even more enjoyable. We chatted all the way, and the young lady even sang a song at our request. It was truly beautiful.

It was lunchtime, and we headed back to the hotel. We had lunch and then rested for some time before we resumed the tour. The autorickshaw dropped us at Hampi Bazaar (close to Virupaksha temple). We walked towards the northern slope of the Hemakuta Hill where the Kadalekalu Ganesha temple stands. The temple houses the largest statues of Lord Ganesha. It stands about 4.5 meters tall, carved out of a single piece of granite. The name Kadalekalu means “gram seed” (chickpeas), as the belly of the idol resembles the shape of a gram seed.

From here we walked downhill towards the valley, the path that leads to Achyutaraya temple. It took us about 15 minutes. The temple is in a relatively secluded valley, which is much quieter than the Virupaksha or Vittala temple complexes. The temple does not feature as a common site for tourists - so the guide told us.

The Achyutaraya Temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is a stunning example of Vijayanagara architecture, known for its intricate carvings and historical significance. It was one of the last grand temples constructed before the decline of the empire by Achyuta Deva Raya, the younger brother and successor of Krishna Deva Raya. The temple is adorned with exquisite sculptures and carvings depicting scenes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata. In front of the temple lies Achyutaraya’s Bazaar, once used for trading precious items, flowers, and offerings for rituals.

The temple now lies in a partially ruined state with the gopuras (tower) and mantapas (halls) damaged after the fall of the empire. But much of the stone carvings and structure remain intact, giving an idea of its past grandeur. By the time we finished exploring the temple, the sun was setting in the horizon. We walked towards Hampi Bazaar and, near the Virupaksha Temple, climbed the stone steps to Hemakuta Hill. We were at the top in 15 minutes. The hilltop offers stunning sunset views and panoramic vistas of Virupaksha Temple and Achyutaraya Temple. But we were not that lucky, as the evening skies were cloudy, nevertheless, we rested on the rocks for a while and called it a day.

The second day took a physical toll on us as we covered long stretches on foot. Fortunately, both of us are in reasonably good shape for our age, so it wasn’t too harsh. We returned to our room, had a satisfying dinner at the restaurant and got the much-needed good night's sleep.

Day 3 - December 21

Our plan for the day was to witness the sunset from Anjanadri Hill, which holds immense significance in Hindu mythology (Ramayana) and is both a popular pilgrimage site and a tourist destination. But we had the whole day at our disposal until sunset. The guide suggested to visit the Zoological park in Hospet and post lunch head towards the hill. We thought it was a good idea.

 

Sri Atal Bihari Vajpayee Zoological Park is located 7km from Hampi. The park spreads across 1400 acres and houses a wide variety of animals, birds and reptiles. We took the battery-operated bus to tour the park. I would only recommend this place if you are interested in watching wild animals or you have enough time to spare during your visit to Hampi. This is not a must-visit destination.

 

We were done by noon, headed back to the hotel for lunch, rest and got ready for Anjanadri hills.

 

Anjanadri hill (also called Anjaneya Hill) is located across the Tungabhadra River near Anegundi, opposite the Hampi ruins. It is traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Lord Hanuman (Anjaneya). There is a small Hanuman temple, painted white, on top of the hill where devotees climb to offer prayers. The hill top provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the Hampi ruins, the Tungabhadra river, vast stretches of rice paddy fields and coconut groves. The sunset and sunrise are spectacular and attracts many visitors.

The hilltop is accessible by a flight of approximately 600 stone steps. The path was alive with fellow travellers — some chatting, some pausing to catch their breath. It took us nearly 30 minutes to reach the summit, which was already buzzing with people. After offering our prayers at the small temple, we found a quiet spot on the rocks to watch the sunset. Around us were people of all walks of life - young and old, Indians and foreigners, couples and families - all waiting for that magical moment.

The view from the top was breathtaking. The sun slowly dipped behind the rocky horizon, and the ruins glowed in hues of orange, creating a magical contrast with the green valley. The air was filled with peaceful silence, broken only by the gentle breeze and the faint ringing of the temple bells. Like many other tourists, we soaked in the superb view — it was timeless.

Our legs were tired by the time we reached the bottom of the hill. The climb had been exhausting, and it showed by the time we got back to our room. After dinner, both of us collapsed onto the bed and didn’t even realise when we fell asleep.

 

Day 4 - December 22

 

It was our last day in Hampi. Over the past three days, we have covered all the major sites and ruins. Our train to Bengaluru was scheduled for 9:10 p.m. from Hospet. With a full day ahead of us, we wanted to make the most of our time. Our first stop was the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) Museum, followed by a visit to the Tungabhadra Dam in Hospet after lunch. We also managed to squeeze in some shopping in between.

The museum is located opposite our hotel. After breakfast, we spent about an hour there. The museum displays artefacts excavated from the ruins and offers a glimpse into the empire’s glorious past, showcasing its art, architecture, culture, and daily life. It is well-organised, with informative labels in both English and Kannada. The indoor galleries are air-cooled and well-lit. The museum gift shop sells authentic, good-quality replicas, books related to Hampi’s history and architecture.

Shopping has always been a ‘must-do’ item on all our travels. It could be a souvenir, a fridge magnet, or something unique to the region. Whatever it may be, we’ve been collecting them ever since we started travelling. This trip was no exception.

 

Hampi Bazaar is the main shopping street, located right in front of the Virupaksha Temple. It is lined with small shops and stalls selling local handicrafts, art, handmade jewellery, stone carvings, granite grinding stones, and other artifacts. The Lambani tribal community is known for its vibrant bags, shawls, and belts adorned with colourful thread work, tiny mirrors, and bells. Lambani women can often be seen selling their goods in the bazaar. Leather bags, wallets, purses, and laptop bags are also quite common here. I managed to get a good deal on a laptop bag, which I’ve been using for over a year now without any complaints. She picked up a mortar and pestle made of granite — an essential tool in every Indian kitchen.

 

We stopped for lunch before heading to the Tungabhadra Dam, located near Hospet, about 15 km from Hampi. The dam, built at the confluence of the Tunga and Bhadra rivers that originate in the Western Ghats of Karnataka, is one of the largest multipurpose dams in South India. It is also a popular tourist spot known for its scenic beauty. The viewpoint offers stunning panoramic views of the vast reservoir. We went up to the viewpoint and spent some time relaxing in the garden. There are other attractions like a musical fountain show and boating in the reservoir, but we didn’t have time for those. We had to return to pack our things for our journey back to Bengaluru.

The train was on time, and we soon settled into our berths. As we left Hampi, we reflected on the past four days — a beautiful blend of history, mythology, and nature. From the coracle rides to the hilltop sunsets, every moment had been unique in its own way. We returned with tired feet but happy hearts. Hampi may be a land of stones and ruins, but every stone has a story to tell of its glorious past. As the train chugged ahead toward Bengaluru, we carried with us not just memories, but a piece of Hampi’s timeless soul that will linger forever. 

Travel tips

The best time to visit is between October and March, as the cooler winter months offer pleasant weather for exploring the historic ruins and temples.

Commuting around Hampi

You can explore Hampi by foot, bicycle, or scooter. Auto-rickshaws are also available for full-day sightseeing, and we chose the latter. Most of the ruins are clustered together, so walking offers the best experience. However, auto-rickshaws cannot access every nook and corner.

 

Footwear & clothing

Wear walking shoes - there's a lot of walking & climbing.

Wear light cotton clothes, cap/hat and sunglasses.

Sunscreens & an umbrella.

Water bottle.

Light snacks (nuts, trail mix).